Store Display at Gastronomia
The Aventino and
Here is something to do in Rome
not on the Guide
After you have exhausted -
and been exhausted by - the must-see sights of Rome, you might find
yourself hungering for something with a little more verismo,
reflecting the real Rome where everyday folks live and work.
fit the bill perfectly.
Nestled between a big bend
in the Tiber and the Aventino Hill, Testaccio is an ancient working
class neighborhood alive with restaurants, all sorts of shopping
and a nice outdoor market.
San Anselmo as Vespers End
The Aventino hill climbs steeply through
dignified and serene residential streets to find
a group of ecclesiastical
enclaves at the
summit, surmounted by pretty plazas and parks. One real treat:
you can hear lovely Gregorian chant as we did
one evening. Nightly at 7:15pm the Benedictine monks of the San
Anselmo abbey sing vespers, and the public is welcome. Located on
top of Mt. Aventino,
it makes for a beautiful walk, culminated with the
serenity of the chanted vespers as it draws dark. We took the metro to
the Piramide station and walked up Via Porta Lavemale to San
Anselmo. Be warned,
however; it is a very steep climb! You might want to catch a taxi at
the metro station and walk down after the service.
in Testaccio there is is a wealth of shops to explore
along busy Via Marmorata,
including an open air market nestled off the main street.
Here, between Via
A.Volta & Via Aldo Manunzio is one of the
true treasure of
Rome, Gastronomia E. Volpetti, one of the most amazing cheese
and specialty food vendors in all of
Check-out a few of the images from this great
store below, and you wonít be able to resist
heading to Testaccio. Step inside, and drown
the aromas and sights. Try to control your vertigo as
the sensations whirl your mind. Regain your bearings, and let the affable owners
Emilio and Claudio, who speaks a bit of English,
shrink-wrap several very unique cheeses to take home.
Defiantly taste some of the wonderful meats and
sausages, but don't try to take any kind of meats into the
U.S., even shrink
wrapped. They will be confiscated
(probably for the personal pleasure of the customs officers).
Trattoria Checchino dal 1887
Via di Monte Testaccio, 30
tel: (06) 574-6318 Closed Su & Mon.
Ä 150 for 2 for
Dinner, Feb. 2004
Book on their website
before you leave for Rome.
Elio, Marina & Francesco Mariani
A Buon Ricordo Restaurant.
walking distance down Via Galvani towards the river
is one of Rome's older and more
Trattoria Checchino dal 1887, serving some of Romeís most authentic food in a refined
food is old-fashion Roman, with many scary things on the menu,
particularly offal (innards),
because the restaurant is in the old stockyards and specializes
in a cuisine called The Fifth Quarter. That means what was left over
and given to the stockyard workers as partial
payment. So innards and cheap cuts abound. But donít let that
scare you away or fool you.
This place is elegant (wear a jacket),
has one of the best wine lists in the city, food that
is elegantly prepared and delicious, and
excellent service. Donít forget to ask to see the wine cellar
after your dinner. The Testaccio hill is actually manmade from thousands
of ancient amphora shards discarded from ancient merchant ships. You can
see them neatly stacked in the cellar, which is carved out of the hill.
After dinner, if you are young or
young at heart, Testaccio is
the hot bed of trendy clubs, mostly serving-up cool jazz.
some images of the great
Gastromomia E. Volpetti
Via Marmorata, 47
tel: 06 574-2352
Visit their website:
www.Volpetti.Com (Italian) or
Click the thumbnails for larger images.